When you begin a big project like building a deck, make sure you do your homework to ensure you don’t miss a move and are secure in your ability to lay decking. A step-by-step guide trains you for each step and assists you in determining what resources and equipment you’ll need. After all, you don’t want to start a project just to have to put it on hold as you go shopping for supplies!

This is particularly important when it comes to physical objects like a deck, so you cannot be able to simply stop and leave the timbers in the breeze. Additionally, when working on an outdoor project such as a porch, you are relying on the atmosphere.

This step-by-step tutorial will walk you through the steps of constructing an elevated timber deck. We used pre-finished decking boards for this step-by-step since they usually don’t need to be re-treated for at least two years after construction.

Before you start, make sure you carefully design the deck – the decks, including expansion gaps, should preferably finish flush with the framework’s outer facings.

Step 1:

Make sure the deck is level and weed-free. Cut the 100mm x 50mm tanalized timber to the desired length and connect it with exterior wood screws to build a structure. By comparing from corner to corner, you can see if the frame is square. If required, make adjustments.

Wooden blocks may be used to support the deck structure.

Step 2:

Cut four blocks of tanalized timber to the appropriate height to lift the structure. At each corner, screw these to the inside of the frame, ensuring that they are flush with the top. Use at least three screws per block, as these will be the ones bearing the brunt of the weight

Step 3:

Whether your deck would be sitting on grass or dirt, you’ll need to position blocks or slabs underneath each edge leg to distribute the load to have a level, solid foundation. Check that the frame is level with the spirit level before positioning and adjusting it. The typical spacing between joists is 400mm.

Step 4:

Three joists are appropriate for a narrow deck (one in the middle and the others at the center-point between the edge of the frame and the center joist). First, make a mark across one side of the picture, then the other. Joists can be spaced 400mm apart on wider boards.

Step 5:

Cut lengths of tanalized timber to fit around the inside of the frame at your joist points, then measure across the inside of the frame at your joist marks. To secure the joists, tap them in with a hammer so they’re flat with the outside, then screw them in from the frame’s outside.

Step 6:

Additional knees, spaced at 1m intervals, are used to support the joists. For these legs, use the same procedure as in steps 2 and 3, making sure that each is covered by an appropriate block or slab.

Step 7:

Measure the length of the outside sides of your frame for the facing and cut the decking boards to fit. To maintain a smooth edge, use a square to mark the cutting lines. Make sure the facing is flat with the top of the frame by countersinking it and screwing it to the frame. Install the decking in a logical order, beginning at one end and working the way to the other.

Step 8:

Measure around the top of the frame and cut a board to length to begin laying the deck. Place the first board perpendicular to the joists and flush with the outside edge of the frame and face. Every joist’s position on the board should be marked.

Step 9:

Countersink and make a mark Over the center of each joist, drill screw holes. Make sure you have a sharp countersink to ensure a clear hole. Drill a pilot hole if possible to avoid breaking the wood. Each decking board should have at least two screws per joist. Each decking board should have a 5mm expansion gap between them.

Step 10:

Each board should have a 5mm expansion distance between them (as timber expands and contracts according to outdoor temperatures). You may do this with a spacer, such as an off-cut of wood or plastic, or just a spare screw, as seen here your finished elevated timber deck

Step 11:

Carry on with the process until your elevated timber deck is full. If you used pre-treated decking boards, no additional painting or staining should be needed.