Though there are several exceptions, composite decking is mostly constructed from a combination of wood scraps (also known as wood flour) and plastic particles.

Preservatives are applied to composite deck boards to help prevent rust, mould, and mildew. Planks are coloured in a variety of colours and have a variety of textures imprinted on them, the majority of which convincingly imitate authentic wood grain.

When assembling composite decking products, it is important to adhere to the manufacturer’s directions. When working with plastics, it’s essential to keep thermal expansion in mind. When it heats and cools, composite decking continues to expand and contract throughout the duration of the sheets. With the right spacing, you’ll be able to walk about without buckling.

Any reinforced decking products are made with concealed fasteners in mind. This clip system is typically screwed onto the deck frame across each joist and fit snugly into a cavity that runs along the side of the decks.

To avoid mushrooming, we consider using reverse thread screws while face-screwing composite decking. When a typical bugle head screw lifts a plastic material above the surface during construction, this is known as mushrooms. The elevated bump that results is not particularly appealing. To level the floor, you can use a hammer as well.

Keep Composite Decking Seams under Control

Seams on the deck surface can be avoided at all costs. When the decking content ages, the butt joints appear to separate and warp. Depending on the size and form of your deck, this can be a simple task that requires little work, or you may need to make any modifications. On decks over 20 feet high, applying decking diagonally will also limit or minimize the number of butt joints. You can find that using a division board to build one continuous seam around the deck surface is more convenient in certain situations. This method is used to hide the seam and render it look as though it were part of the pattern.

Composite decking

This photo shows a field deck that is 24′ high with a 6″ picture frame border. The butt joints would be spaced every 4′ in this situation. To help the seams, we installed two double 2×10 joists. Another option is to use a division board to divide the decking area into two parts.

The double joists are being levelled

To stabilize the composite butt joints, level both joists to the same height and fasten with four screws per 12″.

Hidden fasteners in grooved composite decking

It’s important to level the joists in order to hold the butt joints at the same height. When using a secret fastening mechanism, make sure to use two clips on the double joist. Be sure the distance between the butt joint and the butt joint is at least 1/8 inch.

Over double joists, line up the seams

Begin by face-screwing the first board at the house to mount composite decking with a secret fastening mechanism. Then, into the groove on top of each joist, screw a concealed fastener film. Then, using a rubber mallet, tighten the clips by sliding the groove of the next board into the clips.

Deck boundary with a neat appearance

Composite decking

To keep the final strip of decking from being too narrow, we had to cut down the last two boards to the same width to cover a 7″ hole

Composite Decking around an inside rail post

Composite Decking

Around rail posts, make a notch in your composite decking material. Allow for thermal expansion by leaving at least a 1/8″ space. In this scenario, a rail sleeve and base trim can be used to fill in the holes.